Overlooking Tekoa

Shepherds Fiedl

Walls surrounding Bethlehem

“Family” in Bethlehem

Day 4

Last night we sat under the stars and watched fireworks from the Arab celebration of Muhammad coming into the city of Jerusalem to ascend to heaven from the Mount of the Rock.

Today the Israelis celebrated Jerusalem Day, the reunification of Jerusalem as a result of the 6 day war. We struggled to get out of the city because of the overwhelming military and police presence, but getting BACK into the city was nearly a miracle, aided only by Pastor Aaron’s amazing persistence with the Israeli military/police who had every possible entrance into the Old City, where we are staying, blocked. It was a sad punctuation point to a day that had been spent mostly in Palestine.

Today was our day to spend viewing Herod’s amazing influence in the later part of time before Christ…his power and the wonder of his building projects. We started at Herodian at the site of his HUGE fortress-palace about 40 miles outside of Jerusalem.

After lunch in the German-Jewish section of Jerusalem, we made our way to Bethlehem.

When you think of Bethlehem, you probably think of angels and beautiful night skies and gentle shepherds abiding their flocks by night. I’m sure you don’t think of huge restricting walls and numerous checkpoint corridors and barbed-wire fences that literally make Bethlehem a prison city from which many Palestinian citizens are not allowed to leave without special permission of the Israeli government that erected the HUGE concrete surrounding walls and labyrinth of checkpoint corridors.

Still, the delight of the day was having our taxi driver recognize Pastor Aaron as someone who had taught his children in the American Christian school in Bethlehem, Palestine in 2006. So we were welcomed as family.

He took us to the Field of Shepherds where we stood in an area gazing out at the fields surrounding Bethlehem where the shepherds with their flocks would have been. It was beautiful and peaceful, just like you would imagine. Then as we went into the center of Bethlehem where the Church of the Nativity was located, he showed us where his brother’s shop was located and told us we should come for tea after seeing inside the church.

Some of our group braved the heat and congestion, incense and 3 successive masses and waited to see the spot 3 of the churches have proclaimed as the place of the nativity. But 3 of us did not. We went to the Palestinian family and had mint tea and honey cookies and visited and did a little shopping. Making such a personal Palestinian connection was the real highlight of my day. I was happy to leave the incense and candles, gold and icons to others in Bethlehem.

Returning home I was hurt by the brutal Israeli military presence and arrogance. Every story has two sides. We must pray for calm and reconciliation in a very volatile situation.

Some thoughts that Pastor Aaron shared: the fortress of Herodian is located near the town of Tekoa. While exploring the fortress, we also gathered to overlook the fields of Tekoa and talk about Amos. Amos, a shepherd from the town of Tekoa was a prophet living in Judah sent to Northern Israel, to the leadership there. Why? …because he was more a shepherd who owned fields and employed other workers. He understood the prosperous people in the Northern Kingdom and spoke from their perspective/their language. We were challenged to think about whose language we might “speak”  and where God is sending us because of that.

Hezekiah’s tunnel

Drinks on the roof top

Fireworks over Jerusalem

Day 3

We started off our day at the Western Wall… men on their side and women on their half. We were there early before lots of crowds had gathered so we managed to get close and touch the wall and lift up prayers. We walked back through the plaza at least twice more during the day. I was overwhelmed with the sense that the whole world, in all manner of dress, speaking all languages were there at the wall, in reverence, to offer prayers to God. Pouring out their hearts, entrusting to Him that which is most dear.

The rest of the day was tunnels and history. We walked to David’s city and then through the tunnel that Hezekiah built to redirect the water under the city for times of siege. The tunnel is 1/2 kilometer long, takes about 40 minutes to walk through, and the water is about 6-10 inches deep most of the way, but got as high as 2 feet in places, cool and flowing as it came from the spring. We used flashlights to see our way, sometimes stooping, sometimes almost turning sideways.

Tonight we were back at the Western Wall to take a tour of the tunnels under the Muslem streets, to walk the length of the wall, and talk about the construction of Herod’s Temple. The total length of the wall is about 450-500 meters, but only around 50 meters is exposed today. That is the area where people gather to pray.

Greatest fun:
walking between 2 school groups during our trip through Hezekiah’s tunnel … such exuberance ahead and behind us.

Sharing food as a group for a combined snack mid-day under one of the porches at Ecce Homo.

During our debriefing time on one of the rooftop patios,  David said, “if all we did was these 2 days, the trip would be worth it.”

And now I must stop so we can rejoin the group on the roof top for a glass of wine 🙂

Good Night.

Museum of the Jewish People (Bet Hatefutsoh)

Overlooking Jerusalem

Flight from Toronto went well and found Aaron right away. He was very encouraging about making the effort to get to the Museum of the Jewish People (Bet Hatefutsoh) on the campus of Tel Aviv University. Easy transport by train just outside the arrival doors at the airport. We had some trouble locating the building on campus, but enjoyed the walk … lovely campus. Very worthwhile museum. We took the audio tour as we had less than 2 hours before closing. Only regret was not getting to really spend time on the 3rd floor and hear about the “modern” diaspora. Took the train back to the airport and had Aaron and the group waiting for us. There are a total of 9: 3 couples including us and 3 singles. NICE NICE people!! Settled into our rooms at the Abraham Hostel (first backpacker) and walked around the corner for falafel wraps and a little meet and greet and instructions on “how to walk in the crowds of the Old City.” Now I’m looking forward to having my head hit the pillow :).

Highlight of the day: watching the sunset over the Temple Mount and city of Jerusalem.

Hassle of the day: traffic nonsense because the Pope is here too.

Lion’s Gate, entering Via Delarosa

Chapel at Ecce Homo

Terrace of Ecce Homo

Arab celebration

Dinner at Amigo Emil

Day 2

Today we started with a cab ride back to the Mt. of Olives to once more look over the city, and then make the long walk back down through the garden of Gethsemane and walk the Via Delarosa. It was a day of great highlights and great frustrations.

Right from the start of the day Jesus, the man became very real for me. Looking over His city, I too shed tears thinking of Jesus, the man, crying over His city.

We were not able to get into any part of the garden, although we caught glimpses, because behold, the man, Pope Francis I would be coming through in 3 hours and every thing was already closed in anticipation of his arrival.

It set the pattern for our day. Lots and lots and lots of walking to experience mostly closed doors, closed experiences, terrible traffic jams because of the Pope moving about the city.

But, we were not without our joys. The place we are staying for the next 3 nights is Ecce Homo Convent. It is a beautiful spot filled with shalom, amazing views, a quiet chapel where there is such a sense of Jesus, the man, who for the JOY set before him, endured the cross, because He loved us that much.

Fun: falafel pitas from the “best falafel stand in Jerusalem” while watching a parade of Palestinian young people’s bands March through the Arab quarter.

Not fun: having to walk and walk with our suitcases because we got caught in a total gridlock while trying to drive to Ecce Homo Guest House at the end of a day filled with long walks to closed doors and areas.

Fun: dinner, once we finally found it, with one of our fellow “pilgrims,” Connie at a lovely little restaurant in the Christian Quarter.

Some of the thoughts that Pastor Aaron shared: Mt 26: 30-46 which starts out “…and when they had sung a hymn, they went out to the Mt. of Olives …” We then turned to Ps 118, the hymn that they had been singing just before they went to the Mt. of Olives, and Ps 117, a psalm of praise. Pastor Aaron was emphasizing that Jesus the man knew what His mission was and Who was in control and He went to complete that mission with the quiet assurance that (vs.29) “Oh give thanks to the LORD for He is good; for His steadfast love endures forever!”